Category Archives: Tech Tips

Tech Tips

The Best Way to Break In Your Motorcycle Engine

The best way to break in a motorcycle engine has certainly been the topic of more than one heated discussion. We’ve heard all different methods, each stating that it is “the best” or “the only” way to break in a new engine. There’s the break-it-in-like-you’re going-to ride-it method, which is really just “beat the hell out of it, and just don’t worry about it.” Then there are those who baby the engine so much, they damage it by lugging it and not circulating enough oil. It doesn’t matter whether it is a 93-cubic inch S&S-Series engine or a 124-cubic inch V Twin Series engine, we have figured out what offers the best results down the line. Follow these steps for your new or freshly rebuilt engine, or a brand new bike:

1) Initial start-up: Run the engine approximately one minute at 1,250 to 1,750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject it to any loads during this period, as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time check to see that your oil pressure is normal and that oil is returning to the oil tank.

2) Shut off the engine, and thoroughly check for any leaks. Let the engine cool to the touch.

3) After the engine has cooled, start it again and allow the motor to build some heat. The engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/hot to the touch (approximately 150 degrees) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temperature.

4) Repeat this procedure three or four times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up, and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10 degrees). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently varying the engine speed continuously from idle up to 2,500 rpm in the final cycle. Don’t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time cause idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the Final time, you are ready to start the 1000-mile engine break in process.

5) The first fifty miles are absolutely the most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Any unnecessary engine damage is most likely to, occur during this period, Do your best to keep the heat down, and don’t exceed 2,500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor and riding in heavy traffic. Change your engine oil and filter at fifty miles.

6) The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no faster than 3,500 rpm or sixty mph. Avoid Continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

7) For the balance of the first 1,000 miles, the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range, and the motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain one engine-no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

8) After 1,000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and, adjustment. Change the engine oil, and then change your oil every 2,500 miles thereafter. Now for your next question-”Can I break in the engine using synthetic oil?” Based on testing done at S & S, they proven that you can break in an engine with synthetic oil, and everything will seat and mate up just fine. If you choose to use standard oil for break in, that is acceptable as well. Just be sure that its motorcycle oil and not automobile oil. After the first fifty miles, we do recommend the use of Mobil 1 20-50 V-Twin synthetic oil for long term protection.

Share and Enjoy: These icons link to social bookmarking sites where readers can share and discover new web pages.
  • Digg
  • Sphinn
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • Mixx
  • Google
  • StumbleUpon
  • Propeller

Guidelines to ensure the proper care of your EFI system

1) Keep your fuel system clean! If you are running the external pump with an inline filter, clean the filter at every oil change, the petcock filter at least once a season and both at first oil change. If you have the pump in the tank, clean the filter once a season.

2) Use a good fuel system cleaner. LUCUS, Gumout and Chevron make good products you should add every 10 to 20 tanks of fuel.

3) Use a good fuel stabilizer if your bike is going to be parked for more than a few weeks. The injectors and fuel pressure regulator will gum up fast without it.

4) If the injectors do get gummed up or clogged, remove them and send out to be cleaned. Larger automotive tune-up shops have a machine to clean fuel injectors.

5) Keep your fuel pump happy! An electronic fuel pump uses the fuel passing through it to cool itself. Even the best units will not last long after they’ve been run dry for any amount of time. “This means that if you are running an external pump and petcock; mount the latter so you can get at it easily. Hit the reserve as soon as you feel the first stumble of the engine, and hit the kiII switch if you know the tank is dry. Be sure you have a kill switch on the bars where you can hit it instantly. Also remember to keep the filter clean. A dirty fuel filter will force the pump to work harder and run hotter.

6) Keep an eye on your engine! One of the great things about fuel injection is that you can monitor what is going on with, our bike by plugging into a laptop. If you are not the type to do this yourself, make sure you have a knowledgeable mechanic do it for you. If you don’t have a check engine light, you can still determine whether any trouble codes have been set to find small problems before they become big problems. There are regular software updates for this just like other computer programs.

7) Safety! Check lines and fittings for wear and tightness. This is not a gravity feed carb here. You have a high-pressure fuel system that will spray a quart of 92 octane in l5 seconds! That could make you look like the guy in the movie, Ghost rider. Check your fittings and fuel lines regularly to see whether they are rubbing on anything, to make sure there are no sharp bends and that they are not chafing or getting weak. If you do get a leak, hit the kill switch fast! If you only have one button on your handlebars, be sure it is a kill that you can use easily. It can save your fuel pump and your health.

Share and Enjoy: These icons link to social bookmarking sites where readers can share and discover new web pages.
  • Digg
  • Sphinn
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • Mixx
  • Google
  • StumbleUpon
  • Propeller

CAREFUL WITH HOME SHOP’S

Another issue as a professional motorcycle business is home-based shops that essentially operate out of garages. These guys attend local shows and bike nights and claim to be “in the business” Most, though, lacks the basic operating principles of a genuine business enterprise. Unless you’re very familiar with their work screen these individuals carefully before taking your bike to them. An improperly repaired motorcycle can be deadly. Be wary of anyone willing to repair your pride and joy, who is not a licensed motorcycle mechanic. Chances are that a non-credentialed mechanic has no formal training and may not be insured! Since it is the policy of most reputable parts distributors not to sell to home-based shops except in extreme cases, many of these guys get their parts from retail internet suppliers. They will often have no idea of the origin of a component they install on your bike, and consequently won’t be able to warranty the part. In some cases they will be installing used parts or factory seconds and may not even be aware of it. Because they operate below the radar, there is no obligation to work within standard parameters established by other reputable shops.
By no means am I claiming that everyone who does Motorcycle repairs or fabricates parts and bikes out of home-based shop is not a talented builder or mechanic. Almost every known builder today started that way. As time went on, many realized that in order to grow and prosper, a commercial location was going to be a necessity. I’m more concerned about the long term effects of increased, online purchasing activity and the resulting demise of the grass roots, Independent motorcycle retail shop, if you don’t support your local shop, you won’t have a place to go when you need a voltage regulator at 5 p.m. on a Saturday, so that you can ride with your buddies. What’s more, if only internet-based shops exist, you won’t have a cool place to hang out and talk shop; instead you’ll be in an online chat room. So the next time you need a part for your cycle, call your local retailer, because while the internet can do many cool things, I have yet to see it fix a bike.

CB – Chop Talk, Easy Riders July 07

Share and Enjoy: These icons link to social bookmarking sites where readers can share and discover new web pages.
  • Digg
  • Sphinn
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • Mixx
  • Google
  • StumbleUpon
  • Propeller